Mumbai Mania

Where in Mumbai can you have a meal for less than Rs 40, sit for long hours in a subdued environment and sip on hot chai (tea)? The good old Irani restaurants of Mumbai, which conjures an image of freshly made brun maska (bread and butter), garam chai(hot tea) and faded interiors. In spite of the fast-paced life of the city, time moves in slow motion in Irani cafes. The few remaining in the city still retain the old world charm with casually dressed waiters, wooden chairs, and marble top tables. People from all walks of life come to enjoy simple, yet tasty food of Iranian cafes.

Unfortunately, with new eateries and fancy joints popping up on every nook and corner of the city, Iranian cafes found it hard to sustain themselves. In the 1950s, there were 350 Irani cafes in the city and today, only 25 remain.


One of the most popular Iranian joint is the 104-year-old Kyani café, a heritage landmark near Metro in South Mumbai. Run by third generation of family, Kyani serves fresh bread, all kinds of biscuits from Khari to mouth-watering macaroons, puddings, custards, apple pies, along with mutton patties, kheema pav, omelette, they all are simply delicious! While passing you can get the aroma of bread and pastries tickle your taste buds.

Another popular Irani joint is B. Merwan, started in 1914, right outside Grant Road station, in South Mumbai, is well known for its pudding, which sells like hot cakes and gets over in the morning itself. It costs merely Rs 8 to Rs 10. Could you imagine that the menu at the cafe has been the same for 91 years while most of the other Irani cafes have given way to newer cuisines like Chinese food or fast food etc. The chairs in this cafe are from Czechoslovakia and the marble top tables are from Italy, something which you don't get in stores anymore.

Walk back in time

It seemed that Irani cafes started when small groups of migrants (Iranians) would meet in the evening to discuss their life and their future. One such evening, a man served tea to everyone and charged them a token amount. The result, a new business was born. This was the beginning of probably the first Iranian cafe.

With only 25 remaining, we can only hope that these don't turn into a beer bar, or a modern restaurant like the rest of them. Let the tradition of dipping maska pav in steaming chai live on!

The last of the Irani cafes

Cafe Mondegar, Colaba
Cafe Leopold, Colaba
Paradise Restaurant, Colaba
Cafe Oval, Churchgate
Britannia Restaurant, Ballard Estate
Cafe Ideal, Chowpatty
Jimmy Boy, Fort
Kyani Cafe, Dhobi Talao
B Merwan, Grant Road
New Country Liquor Bar, Fort
Cafe Military, Fort
Koolar and Company, Matunga
Mocambo Cafe, Fort
Paradise, Colaba
Cosmopolitan Restaurant, Prarthana Samaj
Cafe Excelsior, Fort
Cafe De La Paix, Girgaum
Daryush Restaurant, Girgaum
Free India Restaurant and Bakery, Mahalaxmi
Cecil Restaurant, Grant Road
Byculla Pharmacy

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Irani Cafes: Mumbai's Past